Friday, November 27, 2009

Hampi Basics

The rickshaw ride from Hospet station give you hints very early on whats in store - a temple here, a couple of large rocks there. But nothing prepares one for the spectacle that is Hampi - gigantic boulders arranged as if with geometric precision, ancient water ways and of course the ruins of temples and palaces, harking back to a magical kingdom that your grandma's stories always began with.

By Day two of my stay in Hampi, on a ride back to my hotel on a deserted road I could swear I saw one of those couples etched in stone on a nearby temple scampering across the road. Though the temple ruins - a UNESCO world heritage site - spread across a 26 square kilometre areas date back to the 14 century Vijayanagar empire, the mythology goes back to Lord Shiva and the monkey kingdom of Kishkinda , that features in the Ramayana. So read up a bit on the history of Hampi, before you take in the visual splendour.


How to reach:
By train
:The nearest station is Hospet, barely 13 kilometres away. From Mumbai there is the weekly Garib Nawaz Express on Mondays. From Bangalore you can take the daily Hampi Express, an over night train that reaches Hospet around 7.30 am. From Hospet, take a rickshaw to reach your hotel in Hampi (Rs 100-150 in 2008).

By Air: The nearest airport is Bangalore.

By Bus: KSRTC runes overnight air conditioned buses to Hampi.

When to travel: Hampi is hot, most of the year. and I mean hot. March to June is summer, when temperatures can touch 40 degree Celsius. July to September is the monsoon. Since, the trip involves walks between the temples, trips during this time is generally not advisable. November to February is the tourist season, but do carry lots of sunscreen.

How will you travel in Hampi: You can either hire a scooter or cycle to do the temple circuit on your own. These can be hired at the Hampi Bazaar or at Kamlapura. The other alternative is to hire a rickshaw. The rickshaws are hired for a day (9 am to 6 pm) for a pre-fixed rate (Rs 600 in 2008). The rickshaw driver will usually have a map and also a good itinerary. Rickshaws are usually parked outside your hotel and you could strike a deal with the driver for the period of your stay. If budget is not a concern, you can also rent a car (Rs 1,000 for a day). If you are too lazy to do this, another option is the bus tour arranged by a Karnataka Tourism. You can book it at Hampi Bazaar, Hospet or at Hotel Mayur Bhuvaneshwari (they have a pick up from the hotel if you stay there).

How many days:You require a minimum of three days to cover the important temples and palace ruins.

Where to eat: There are some good restaurants which serve a variety of cuisine at Hampi Bazaar. Mango Tree, nestled among a banana plantation, is a must visit for its views and food. We had some of our best meals at New Shanti restaurant - on the lane on the right side of the Virupaksha temple. With its psychedelic decor, the restaurant serves some real nice fare, including wood oven pizzas. The Geeta River View indeed has one of the best views, but the food is over rated. Across the river Virupapur Gadde has a few good restaurants like the Goan Corner.

Where to stay: There are four options and these depend on your budget.
At Hospet: If you need luxury, then the best choice is Hotel Malligi close to Hospet railway station. But, bear in mind that Hampi is 13 kilometres away. So factor in the commute to and fro.
At Hampi Bazaar: This is the budget choice and not surprisingly the choice of firang backpackers. A number of houses are converted into guest houses and let out to tourists. You are in the middle of all the action, and an option if you are travelling on a budget.
Across the river: A coracle ride from the Hampi Bazaar side of Tungabadhra will take you to Virupapur Gadde, which has guest houses and small hotels - again favoured by backpackers. Remember that to go across the river, you have to take a ferry, which operates only till 6 pm. Shanti Guest House and Kishkinda resort have good reviews.
Hotel Mayur Bhuvaneshwari: This KTDC run hotel is the best choice and is the only place in Hampi that serves


alcohol. Location wise it is near the Royal Enclosure. Hampi Bazaar is a five to 10 minute ride away. There are rickshaws parked right outside the hotel. The staff is laid back like all government run hotels. President Pratibha Patil had visited Hampi in 2008, and since she stayed in HMB, the place has been renovated recently. Food is just about bearable.

Don't Miss:
* A coracle ride on the Tungabhadra river.
* Buy curios, stone sculptures, carpets and handmade blankets. They are pretty cheap.

Remember:
* To take comfortable walking shoes.
* Sunscreen
* An umbrella.

4 comments:

Chivalrous said...

Mindblowing piece of advice for any tourist to Hampi. Carrying lots of suncreen sounds too funny :)

scritic said...

I'm bookmarking this in case I ever go to Hampi anytime.

shhibs said...

You have to - its a `must visit' place - and Joe and me agree that it is more beautiful than Ayuthaya and possibly Cambodia (from what we have seen in Harsha's pics).

Haresh said...

Very nice.. Its really helpful :)